I wrote about Joel Robuchon in brief before as I call him “the Empire of Taste”. If we need to choose a restaurant to put up the throne of the legendary chef who has his banners waving all over the world with 25 stars he earned in his over 50 years of carrier with a title “Chef of the Century”, probably our choice would be Robuchon au Dome!
Originally opened in 2001 with the name of “Robuchon a Galera” and after ten years, moved to its new location and reached its present magnificence, Robuchon au Dome is now located on the 43rd floor of the Grand Lisboa Hotel which is housing the refined restaurants of Macau. In other words, Robuchon au Dome has got the place beneath the great dome of the hotel and thus enjoys the crème of the crop.
When you get to the highest floor with the elevator to reach the restaurant which has been holding its 3 stars since 2008, first, a chic wine cellar will welcome you. It was actually voted the best of 2014.
In order to reach the dining hall, again, you have to use another elevator. When the doors of elevator are opened, you will be greeted by the mellow melodies coming from a pianist with a gentle smile on his face, playing a Steinway with its dazzling intaglio legs. Following the beautiful scene, if you rove your eyes towards the ceiling, you will witness the word “magnificence” coming to life.
Hanging from the ceiling of the dome is a long chandelier with its 130,000 pieces of Swarovski jewels. It reflects in the eyes of every visitor, inspiring admiration and awe. Besides the fact that Robuchon au Dome has the second biggest chandelier in the world; when the staff mentioned Dolmabahçe Palace as the biggest chandelier, it filled us with pride.
The restaurant has a serving capacity for 60 people and thanks to its design, every table has its share of the magnificent view of Macau as if they were all placed beneath the window. Captivated by the dazzling view, we almost forgot about the dinner when we got to our table which, by the way, was decorated with crystal and golden tableware. Following the first impression, we created a menu with 8 dishes with the help of the Maitre d’Hotel Morgan Li and the French Chef Francky Semblat who has been a student of Robuchon working with him in various restaurants for 20 years.
Since it was the truffle season, Robuchon au Dome was serving such scrumptious dishes with white Alba just as Amber did. As it was the key ingredient the kitchen focused on, the amuse bouche choices were mostly omitted, thus the only ones they served were the ginger jelly that looked like a small cookie, and crunchy lollipop with croquant.
We were first served a bread basket which was prepared from the bread trolley at the entrance, accompanied by salted and unsalted butter. Watching the servicing staff shaving the butter from the butter hills and creating small balls of butter was as exciting as when that butter with some black peppercorns met the piping hot bread and formed a tasteful union.
While our share of truffle for the whole course was being introduced to us, a bottle of Meursault Charmes Premier 2002 was served in a carafe to accompany our dinner.
The first dish was la caviar under which some anice cream and coral jelly were hidden. Although it looked dazzling being served in a bit convex dish, the most stylish dish of the night was la truffe blanche which was composed of roseval potatoes, lightly smoked foie gras and Italian rocket with a sprinkle of three different snow-white truffles from the Alba region. As it was served in a bell jar, the lukewarm dish satisfied my palate with its Mediterranean flavors boosted with some olive oil and white balsamic sauce.
The following dish was starring langoustines as you may also call freshwater lobsters. With a few basil leaves, the langoustines were thinly coated with potato cream and deep fried. Having been placed on a piece of paper, it left no oily trace at all; hence the Chef Semblat proved his skills. Both the langoustines and the basil leaves were crunchy and tasteful to our palates.
The greatest company of truffles is, as you know, pasta and eggs! In the dish le spaghetti, Robuchon au Dome successfully put these ingredients together. The dish was a show-off in the realm of flavors with its Alba truffles sprinkled with the slow poached egg pieces.
As I had tried it before, the wagyu dish was made from Kagoshima beef and accompanied by baby carrots in wine sauce, potato soufflé alongside with potato puffs. As it was a great example of the sustainability of the restaurant menu, the taste of the beef was, again, excellent.
When we came to the end of the meals, the dessert trolley that showed up was the kind of thing that would captivate especially women. But as our table was mostly peopled by businessmen, it looked like everyone was a bit shy of acting in the presence of this “food porn” trolley and tried to ignore it. The desserts we chose included stuffing puff with chestnut creamy; ice cream with caramel and nuts; one of the signature desserts of the restaurant, mille-feuille stuffed with ice cream with poppy-seeds; tiramisu which was rather light and served in an unconventional style; mandarin dessert coated with cranberry jelly. Every one of them was so successful that they left many of us hankering after the dessert trolley.
At the end of the night, I found relief in espresso macchiato as I usually do so when I can’t get any Turkish coffee. It was accompanied by calvados as a digestive.
Having turned 50 years old, Robuchon got bored of the perfectionist attitude of Michelin, hence wended his way to a cozier and more laid-back concept with the name of “L’Atelier” which works like a culinary workshop. But still Robuchon au Dome is one of the best restaurants run by the great chef. Although it has been altered into a more formal atmosphere in comparison with the others, don’t get intimidated by all the magnificence you see in the pictures. Because, the restaurant has the kind of high-toned style that won’t make its customers feel uncomfortable. I think Robuchon au Dome differs from its many star-awarded counterparts in terms of being more delightful and cozier at the same time. As it also has a good balance of price and taste, it satisfies its customers with the beauty of its design too.
I recommend you to note down the restaurant for your Macau plans!
Bon appétit and enjoy the taste of life…
Robuchon au Dome
Grand Lisboa Hotel
Avenida de Lisboa, Macau
+853 8803 7878