The Adventure Goes On: Barbun Restaurant

Even the most adventurous fishermen are confused when it comes to whether the small fish caught on the hook is red mullet (tr. barbun) or surmullet.

 

If we ignore their small size, similar colors, the blunt nose of red mullet helping it to change its direction, and the visible stripes on the back of surmullet; they are actually the members of the same family, swimming in the deep Aegean Sea, feeding from the same source, searching for food beneath the same rock.

 

Just like Barbun and Alaçatı, the two relatives in Alaçatı…

 

The Beginning of Alancha

 

Following the comprehensive blog post about “Alancha” of the last week, I’d like to introduce you to Barbun, where Alancha started its journey from.

 

Recently ringing the changes on its design so as to go on its culinary journey with a new face, Barbun was opened by Kemal Demirasal in 2007.

 

Since Kemal started to lose his passion for windsurfing because he mastered it thoroughly; as a researcher and innovator, he decided to put into to practice his love for kitchen and the inspiration taken from Noma. This time, he became a self-trained chef surfing the culinary waves. Not only with the interesting flavors he offered, also the way he presented to the customers, Barbun soon became a popular destination for the tourists and made a world of difference in Alaçatı.

 

Kemal’s intention was to rework the local recipes with new techniques and transform them into unimaginable forms of tastes, rather than taking the easy way out and cooking the traditional recipes using the local ingredients in the best way he can. In addition to this, he aimed to try to surprise the customers before they even tasted the dishes and relieve their spirits estranged from nature and put a smile on their faces. Based on such visions, he created Barbun where the diners pick their olives from the flowerpots brought to the table, take their quail eggs from the dish made of straw and toast their olive oil shooters in between the dishes.

As the restaurant serves what the chef wants to cook rather than what people expected from him; first it started on its journey with a small menu as a result of the chef’s full attention to its design and pedantic personality.  Every ingredient was local and fresh in its season. Since the menu embraces the whole geography, it offers also all sorts of Aegean herbs and flowers in addition to vegetables, seafood and meat.

 

Claiming that all the products of the same region always create a harmony with each other, Kemal Demirasal also goes with the same idea when it comes to pairing the food with wine and chooses the wines made from the local grape variety.

 

Starting a New Page

 

With a new project he put into practice in the summer of 2013, Kemal Demirasal moved all the concept I just mentioned into a new restaurant located on an enchanting hill with a sweeping view of Alaçatı and thus, built a comprehensive kitchen as a means to his goal. In the meantime, he rang the changes on Barbun instead of shutting it down.

 

As it was the beginning point of the philosophy behind Alancha, Barbun still puts a value on the local producers and farmers, interprets the Aegean cuisine thinking outside the box, and tries to show his sensibility towards nature both in the flavors and their presentations.

 

But this time, it offers these in a different atmosphere created by the walls elaborated with graffiti and the accompanying deep house tracks.

 

Leaving the tasting menu to Alancha, Barbun offers its visitors a fine combination made with ingredients in fresh in their season. The concept of the restaurant reflects on the menu as innovative dishes and more basic recipes.

 

The talent of the Executive Chef Tufan Özen (born in 1989) is noticeable in every detail. Following his training in MSA (The Culinary Arts Academy) and ICIF (Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners) and his work experiences at the known restaurants such as Mikla, Good Foods and The Marine Place, the chef returned to Turkey and became the sous chef of Alancha. Another talented name working with Tufan is the Sous Chef Kaan Karagöz who, this year, has become the head of the team with ten members.

 

As the Alaçatı bazaar which is teeming with fresh products provides the restaurant a fast and comfortable shopping, every dish in the menu got a good mark from us.

 

Piyaz of Antalya was boosted with tahini, red onion, parsley, lemon and salt. With lemon peels grated and sprinkled on the top, the dish also had some “piménton” which is a Spanish pepper with a smoked aroma.

 

The following dish was Balık Pazarından (From the Fish Market) composed of carrot puree made with ginger sugar and sea bream marinated in lemon juice for a very short time. With a piece of ginger flavored with dark soy sauce on the top, the dish left a Far Eastern taste on our palates.

 

Marinated Wild Sea Bass was cooked like the renowned Southern American seafood dish “ceviche”. After being dipped in lemon juice for two seconds, the fish was served on a bed of marrows and capers. Also with some avocado and coriander seeds, the dish was a taste bomb.

 

Marseille Style Jumbo Shrimps was another seafood choice of the night. Flambéed with cognac, the dish was made with shrimps, parsley, garlic, olive oil and some butter.

 

The last dish of the night was lamb tandoori. It was cooked in a special steam oven adjusted to 50% steam for about 2-3 hours. Flavored with onion, grape molasses and some dates cream at the bottom, the appearance of the dish was tempting us to have a bite.

 

More Possible Changes

 

I think it was an appropriate move for the chef to transfer the original Barbun concept to Alancha which is a better place for it, and change Barbun’s features.

 

But if I were the Chef Kemal, I would make this lively atmosphere a “funkier” place and turn it into a bistro bar offering delightful snacks such as “finger foods” and “tapas bar” again with a personal interpretation.

 

Both with its location and the prevalent atmosphere, Barbun is a restaurant fit for such a new concept. If it’d make such a move, it would fill the culinary gap Alaçatı is lacking.

 

But again with its energetic design and the flavors it is offering, Barbun is another fine Alaçatı restaurant I’d definitely recommend you to have a try at.

 

Bon appétit and enjoy the taste of life…

 

Barbun Restaurant

www.barbunalacati.com

1001. Sk No:5, Alaçatı/İzmir

+90 232 716 8308